Small Mishap

Some college youth really wanted me to play with them out on the cricket field. It was already getting dark, and the pitch was a little uneven, and there was some gravel . . . the end of the story is I don't think I'll have a shiner, but part of my face is scratched up. No permanent damage, just some superficial scrapping, nothing the neosporine I brought won't fix. I went out to the ancient port city of Lothal today (2500 BC, part of the Harappan early Indus civilization). Unfortunately there is not much left to see, but just being out in the fresh country air enjoying nature and the agricultural activities was a welcome relief from the frenetic pace of the city. I meet a group of four pharmaceutical workers (who are preparing for a USFDA audit) and they invited me to lunch and wouldn't let me pay for the tractor ride to the railway station or the train ticket home. They were very excited to meet a foreigner; they claimed that tourists to India tend to avoid Indians and that I am the first visitor they had been able to talk and share with. Later, on the train, the family sitting in my crowded compartment got very excited that I was visiting their remote part of the state and made me eat Indian sweets and coconut. Then finally walking home through the park I meet up with the sporting college fellows who got me into my small accident. I think they felt bad for coersing me to play because they brought me ice and chai afterwards to make it up to me. So today I was getting lots of special attention, which has been true throughout the country. People are so excited just to meet me and converse with the very limited vocabulary we share. I feel very special to be here.

Some daily goals in India

1-Every day I wake up with the same goal: Do not get hit by any kind of motorized vehicle today. So far so good on goal number one.

2-Stay hydrated, I always have a bottle of water in my back-pack, and only once so far have I completely depleted my stores (on an overnight bus ride). Luckily drinking water is readily available here.

3-Avoid sketchy situations, again so far so good. My dodgiest spots have been fake friends; people here are really friendly in general, but sometimes people just approach me to get me to buy something or to later demand money from me. Usually I can sense this coming, but I don't want to get too paranoid. Today an over aggressive saleswoman pretended to want to shake my hand, then grabbed me and stained a henna "OM" onto my palm and proceeded to demand 15 rupees (no rupees were rendered).

4-Remember to treat everyone with human dignity, even when situations would make it easier to act otherwise (see above anecdote). Some people's situations really are desperate.

5-Eat food. This is easy enough, but its hard to make healthy eating decisions as mosty the readily available eats consist of some sort of fried dough, and with going all veg, its hard to get protein. I think I am slowly growing skinnier as I deplete my fat and muscles for reserves for energy.

6-Find time to relax. Sometimes this is hard in a country of 1+ billion people.

7-Spend some time thinking about my friends and family. This is no problem, I think of you all the time.

Gandhi Ashram

Gandhi's simple home reminded me of my house in Honduras, thick mud-brick walls, tile roof, and shiney cement floor. As I sat in the shadey compound grounds I thought of how much I love peace and I reflected on how lucky I have been to enjoy such a peaceful existence here on this earth. I felt a strong desire to commit my life to pursuing peace in whichever capacities I am able. However cherished this inspiring experience was, my peacefulness was immediately assaulted as I left the ashram gates by the hecticness that is India. Every extra loud beep-beep of the buses, or noxious gulp of black air, or site of children playing with trash in a squatter camp, or the overaggresive tactics of the street merchants, dissapated my sense of peace until by the time I returned to my small room I don't know if there was much left. Despite all this, I like to think that inside of me, and inside of us all, there is always peace, sometimes life's distractions just make it a little harder to find!

What a journey!

Covered in dead skin, sunscreen residuals, and salt from multiple days of evaporated sweat, it seems like days since I have been in a bed or even a horizontal position. I haven't eaten anything that can't be grabbed from a bus window. I feel like I crossed an entire continent. Just a few days ago I was sitting on a remote tropical beach surrounded by lush palm forests and jungle, breathing the refreshing sea breezes - now I'm fresh off a 14 hour bus ride, sweltering in a semi-arid desert zone (like southern California in the summer) in a huge city (Ahmedabad, pop. 4.6 million) along with all of the concomitant hecticness, noise, and pollution. Its not the kind of place I would chose to spend a substantial amount of time, especially with all the other temptations India has to offer, but I have my research to do (if I can finally get access to my organizations). Plus, most places have their charm - just some you have to look a little harder than others to find, but look at LA, we all love it and lots of people can't seem to find it's charm when they first arrive!

Extreme Travel

After over 24 hours of travel, I am almost at my research site. One more overnight bus should do it (I think). I had a four hour layover in Goa and had to see both old Goa and new Goa, it was hectic. I made it all the way up to Aurangabad, over 1000 kms in one day (that's a lot for India considering the transport options). I am taking a short break here to see some sacred cave temples and check e-mails, and then I'm off again.

Tropical Paradise

What a perfect day! The setting here at Gokarna is ideal, a small town full of religious pilgrimage sites right on a sandy beach. A series of volcanic cliffs seperate another four beaches all within walking distance. With nice sunny weather and sea breezes I spent the entire day alternating between hiking and swimming and resting on the sand or in temples, eating fruit and snacks. To end the day, I just watched the sun set from a panoramic perch high above the sea and sand. I really wish you all could have been here to share it with me!

This was the best way to end my tour of South/Central India. As some of my blog followers have gently reminded me, the whole purpose of my journey to India was to get some dissertation research done, so this is the Southern terminus of my trip. As I lay under the fan in my bungalow attic room tonight, I will plan a quick (quick in terms of India!) route North towards my field sites.

Where the sand meets the surf

I was feeling a little homesick, so I decided to head for the beach hoping it would remind me of Santa Monica and good times. I started out at dawn - a short bus ride, a missed train, a long bus ride, an even longer bus ride, one more short bus ride, and a short walk later (also 12 hours and $4 later) I am standing in front of Om Beach; oh the joy! I just sat watching the sunlight disappear, walked through the shore surf, and enjoyed the moment after such a long day. There is no Bay Watch, and the water is a lot warmer and the air a lot more humid, the swells way mellow, and the vegetation tropical - but its the same basic concept, the ocean meets the land and people are having a good time! And the best part is you can actually swim in the water because its not extremely polluted!

Executive Summary

It has been almost two weeks in India now and I wanted to make a post updating everyone on what I have been doing and seeing in this time.

London - In retrospect thinking about London what satnds out most is how orderly and clean the city is compared to anything in India! Plus the weather was so cool!
Mumbai - I really loved the Marine Drive in the evening, with the cool sea breezes and everyone out walking or sitting and relaxing. I also took a boat tour out to Elephant Island where monks carved temples out of the rock and was solicited to play as an extra in a Bollywood filming (although I was unwilling to commit an entire day to the effort).
Pune - I got to stay with a group of MBA students Imeet on the train and get insights into the aspirations of young Indians. They all want to be rich and have cars and travel to the US. I had to ride on a motorcycle through crazy traffic (now I know why Peace Corps bans this form of transportation!). Unfortunately we spent a lot of time watching action movies, fixing computers, and taking naps.
Hyderabad - Another mega-city, with a lovely hilltop temple and planetarium/science museum with Griffith Observatory type views. The old town is a huge Muslim street bazaar with a Mecca Mosque capable of accomodating 10,000 worshipers.
Bidar - A chance to get away from the big cities and walk a huge deserted fortress inhabited only by wild peacocks.
Bijapur - Dominated by a large faux Taj Mahal, which they claim is the largest space enclosed by an unsupported dome (the acustics are incredible, you can hear your hand clap echoed at least 12 times); best of all, you can climb up on top, spectacular views! This town has a serious Muslim population, which had mixed feelings about my participation in the Hindu Holi celebration.
Badami - An incredible medeaval mud brick town in a cliff setting surrounded by many many temples. I love this place!
Hampi - Where I am writing right now, the epicenter of India backpacker culture (see earlier post).

Magical Vortexes

It seems like every country has a city or place where a special kind of traveler converges. The kind that isn't necessarily interested in the historical or cultural value of a place, but more in an extra chill vibe, being far away from everything, and really living life. Places like Antigua Guatemala, Granada Spain, or Cuzco Peru seem to attract these kind of people. That place in India is Hampi. I knew it when I saw the abundance of dreadlocks, people wearing world clothes, all the Che Guevara paraphernalia, and many budget accomadation options. The foreign element has overwhelmed whatever local culture existed, and now every available corner or shop is busy trying to hawk trinkets or book travel arrangements or prepare pizzas and hamburgers. Its a magical place to be, with all the pluses and minuses of tourism.

Things found in abundance in india (and not found)

Waste: all kinds, especially plastic bags and bottles, but also vegetable waste, rotten fruits, peels, and leftover plant parts from the market, animal waste and human waste (all over the place).
People
Autorikshaws
Muslims: I don't know if its just the regions I have been in, but there are many Muslims here, lots of green flags, crescent moons, beards, kuffis, very loud prayer calls, and mosques. It is the country with the second most Muslims in the world, but I wasn't expecting this much visibility.
Noise: especially street noise, lots and lots of honking (or horning as they say here)
Traffic
Pollution: even in the countryside, the water and air is almost unbearable (physically and emotionally)
Temples: I have seen at least sixty in the past two days.
People selling things: anything or service imaginable!
Mobiles (as they call cell phones)
Motorcycles: especially the Honda Hero
Colors
Pigs: I don't understand this one, muslims don't eat pork and I haven't meet a Hindu who claims to eat pork?

Things I have not found so much of here
Internet: I thought India was cyberland, but its hard to find, even in the cities.
Opportunities to swim: every body of water so far has been way to polluted, even for me.
Urban green areas: Every open space is a dump, except for the very few 'gardens' which are usually found at national monuments and are maticulously cared for by an army of sicsor wielding garden attendants. Indians love these green spaces and come to the monuments just to relax on the grass.
Toilet paper: I don't think it exists here.
People speaking English: at least more than a few stock phrases and words.
Meat: I don't mind though, the 'veg' options as they say are awesome.
Non-Indians: So far the regions I have toured have very few white people. maybe its low season or maybe I'm just not in the popular areas. I am sure when I tour the big sites in the north we'll find more non-Indian visitors.

My conversations in India

People do not speak much English in the places I have visited so far. therefore, most of my conversations have been short. Here is a typical example of approximately 75% of my verbal interactions with the locals:

Indian Person: Hello (or if they're trying to impress me 'Hello my friend')
Me: Hello
IP: Waz yur name?
Me: Luke (Indian person is confused because they think I said the word 'look' which sounds identical to 'Luke' to them)
IP: Where you from?
Me: USA, America
IP: Ah America (or sometimes 'Obama!')
M: Yes
IP: Married?
M: Yes (then I show them a wedding picture of me and Janet)
IP: so beautiful

This is usually the part where my Indian conversant runs out of phrases and starts speaking to me in Hindi. After my confused look they realize I cannot understand anything they have said. At this point I usually say 'nice to meet you' and go on my way. I have this same conversation about 25 times a day.

Most people I have meet so far are just excited to talk to a foriegner (I don't think the areas I have visited so far get many non-Indian tourists, I have only seen a handful of white people so far). About 10% of the people are trying to get something out of me. They will insert lines like "what is your national coin?" which enevitably leads to "show me a dollar." Luckily I don't fall for this trick. Sometimes someone (especially street children) starts off asking for rupees or chocolate or something else, at which point I have to redirect the conversation by asking them their name or where they are from.

In some of the smaller cities I have visited I will sometimes see the same person again, at which point they will say 'look' or 'USA.' Another 15% of the people can actually speak a decent amount of English, and they want to know about what I do as a profession, where I am studying, why I don't have any children, how many countries have Ivisited, what salary does a teacher in the US make? Females rarely speak to me, I think it is taboo, so most of my conversations are with men and children. Even if people cannot say many words in english, they often want me to just sit with them and relax.

Holi Encore!

Apparently people love celebrating Holi here and just can't get enough with one day. This time around I was not spared. I got hit by a drive by Holi while on the bus into a medium sized town in the Indian countryside. Next, a group of four friendly chaps painted my face red while I was walking to a local monument. Finally, a large mob of revelers spotted me and in an excited frenzy placed me on a stretcher and covered me in flowers and branches as they carried me through the town beating drums and chanting loudly. Apparently it was some sort of honor. With a large crowd watching, the local news came and filmed me for their eveniong broadcast. They finally let me go after making me breakdance in the middle of a large circle of onlookers. Some bad news, this indian body paint is potent stuff; my face is still bright pink after two showers!

Cyberabad

I am in Hyderabad, one of the new IT hubs of India. I just walked down a street with at least 60 cell phone dealers and 100 motorcycles. Everyone who is young and can speak English or use a computer is working in the technology sector and buying or upgrading their cell phones. Indians love their cellphones (people are very surprised I don't have an Indian cell phone eventhough they know I don't live here). Eventhough a starting salary is only about $200 a month, that's enough to live the high life here. hyderabad has so many new posh shops, resteraunts, and clubs sprouting up all up and down the main drag. Its very bright at night. Right next door is old Hyderabad, where you can see old-school manual labor, like people fixing the soles of shoes, or pounding metal on an anvil, or hand stitching sekwens onto sori material. That's India for you, everything is available and everything is right next to each other.

Walking in India

Walking is a difficult task in this country. The sidewalks or other areas designated for pedestrians are often usurped by microenterprises, motorcycleparking, sleeping people, or have been converted into toliet areas. Consequently, everyone walks in the street. There are not many cars, but their is a constant flood of three wheel autorickshaws, motorcycles, and buses. Everyone honks incessantly. Honking is not rude here, people drive so erratically that you need a audio heads up as to where everyone is. Crossing any kind of street is very dangerous, like a highstakes version of Frogger. Firstly, people driving on the left side of the road is a little confusing, but that aside, traffic never stops. You must wade into the current to make it to the other side. Major intersections are stressful or street crossing at night or people driving against the flow of traffic. Luckily there are many pedestrians, so I try to tag along with a group instead of crossing solo.

Street Food

Street food here is delicious, varied, and reasonably priced. There is so much fruit to choose from; today I ate bananas and guavas (without salt and chile). I also had some lentil patato stew served in a bowl made from a dehydrated leaf (I love the low earth footprint materials). Fried things are also a street specialty. I've had a fried boiled egg and delicious fried green chiles, as well as all kinds of samosas. People love selling little snack items in paper cones, like roasted garbanzo beans or peanuts or boiled beans with masala. There are also endless opportunities to drink tea or buy special milkshakes, btu I have stayed with my traditional staple, water. Luckily drinking water is readily available here. The city has set up many drinking water faucets and many people provide water as a free service. Everyone here is so friendly and excited to meet a foriegner.

Holy Holi

India is celebrating Holi, the festival of colors. What it seems to my untrained eye is a city wide water fight, only that the water has chemical additives which make it extremely bright. The celebration started the night before with bonfires on every street corner. People burned cow dung decorated with flowers and white sand drawings while chanting and throwing offerings into the flames. People could not explain the exact meaning of the symbolism. The next morning everyone was out on the streets again armed with water bottles, squirt guns, and entire buckets of color. Some people seemed more into this phase of the festivity (children and men) than others (older people and people wearing nice clothes). Unfortunately my hosts made me watch the revilry from the safety of our balcony because the were afraid my clothes would be destroyed with colors. I wanted to take photos of this exciting festival, but I was afraid it was too dangerous for Janet's camera!

Riding the train in India

Everyone knows the stereotypes about riding the train in India; they are all true! Except people riding on the roof, I haven't seen that yet (although my friends here me it happens during the summer). I took a second class car from Mumbai to Pune (approximately 190kms and 4 1/2 hours); I could have paid a few dollars extra and upgraded to a first class car (maybe Iwill consider that in the future). The train originated in Mumbai, so it started out empty for us. As soon as the general seating doors opened a mad rush ensued to grab good spots. I managed to get an actual seat in the scramble, my years of experience with public transit paying off! Others stood in the passageways or sat in the overhead areas which were originally designed for storing baggage. The train already appeared full, but at each stop more people boarded. On top of the travelers. vendors jumped on and off hawking all sorts of food and drink, other more random items, like nail clippers and ballons. Despite the heat and stiffling conditions, everyone seemed in good spirits. Most people could not speak English, but I picked up lots of positive body language. Everyone enjoyed seeing my wedding picture, the passangers passed it reverently around the entire seating area. The man sitting next to me, an MBA student named Sunil, was so friendly he invited me to stay with him while in Pune. When it come time to depart I was a little sad to say good-bye to my new train friends. Disembarking involved surviving a harrowing gauntlet. At least fifty eager would-be travelers standing on the platform rushed the train door as an equally eager number of us would-be train exiters tried top accomplish the same task in the opposite direction. Luckily a stout Indian policeman intervened in the smash-up zone with whistle and batton to part the seas for our departure. Free at last, I enjoyed the ability to move my limbs and breathe the relatively fresh air. A great experience all-in-all, but I might consider upgrading to a reserved seat car for longer rides.

Bombay charm

The city is a little overwhelming at first, but it does have its charm. I spent this evening on the beach and the marine walk. Although the water is too polluted for any kind of swimming, people really enjoy sitting on the sand while the sun sets, enjoying the cool sea breezes; lots of familys and even people in burkas (no burkinis though because of the aweful water conditions). There are plenty of vendors, and some people even set up whole resteraunts on grass mats on the sand. The sidewalks along the breakwater turn into Mumbai speed walking. I think everyone enjoys getting their exercise or social walking in after the sun sets. There are alos plenty of people who just sit on the ocean walls and meet up with friends while eating snacks and hot tea provided by the ambulatory vendors.

This morning I took a ferry out in to the harbor to visit Elephant Island, the site of some ancient cave rock temples. We sailed by lots of old rusty boats and saw the Indian Navy stationed at the old fort.

I also explored some of the non-touristy parts of the city and got lost in a maze of market streets full of lots and lots of people and merchandise of all kinds. I also stumbled upon various religious buildings in the midst of all the commotion, a Hindu temple, a Jain temple and several mosques. The worshipers encouraged me to take off my shoes and participate, but I wasn't sure how. I ate lunch from a vendor who had converted the trunk of his car into a mini-eatery. People were giving me looks to observe how I woul eat with my hands - apparently my style is slightly different than the local variation. I also saw the outdoors clothes washing district, but had mixed feelings about how this has become a tourist activity. I went to the Gandhi shrine at his Bombay house and saw his simple work area. He is an inspiration.

Who wants to be a millionaire?

I am in Mumbai and yes, every movie theater is showing Slum Dog. Being here is a lot like being in the movie. Life is fast passed and action packed, full of sounds and smells and the weather is very warm. The plane flew in right over the slums so I got a good view of the frenetic life down there and the haphazard urban landscape, with sky scrappers rising right out of shanty towns dotted with temples and mosques and with the train tracks right through the middle. I took the urban train all the way in from the airport - it is exactly how you would imagine a train in India with all the passengers running on and off at each stop and fighting over the door so they can lean out and feel the breeze. The weather is very warm; I don't think it will ever cool off! The city sticks right out into the ocean, but there's not many chances for swimming given the extreme pollution in the water. Strong smells are ever present here, most of them unpleasant. The food is plentiful and cheap. Lodgings are low quality, but also cheap. My bed takes up 85% of my room, but at least there is a fan! The architecture in this city is spectacular, but decrepit. The traffic is non-stop, but I think I am figuring out the proper technique for crossing the busy streets. People are everywhere. This is India, the first impressions have not disappointed - it is all those things you imagine! Tonight I will sleep well, after two nights sleeping in British Airlines world traveler class (I don't mind sleeping on the plane, but flying east makes the night time so short!). I miss everyone very much! I wish you could all experience this with me, it is truly awesome!

Off to India

I am reviving this blog after a long hiatus. I originally started to post when I hosted 26 Indian and Pakistani teachers over the summer of 2007 at UCLA for an institute designed to provide professional development and foster greater understanding and conflict resolution for our participants. Blogging was one of the technology components included in the institute, so I learned it along with them. I have not been the best blogger, but I think it will be a good tool to share information, so I am recommitting.

My dissertation research has revived my interest in India. I will be in the country for two months conducting field studies of Education for Sustainable Development in various sites in the Western and Northern parts of the immense nation. My wife and my father will join me for the last three weeks in India and we will try to see some of the fabled tourist sites. I also want to reconnect with some of my teacher friends from the UCLA institute whom I have not seen since they left California.

Its an exciting opportunity and I am grateful things have worked out. Previously in 2007 I was to travel to Islamabad in Pakistan, for a follow-up conference to the UCLA institute, but my trip was canceled by the State Department weeks before my scheduled departure due to the possibility of political unrest and violence.

I love to meet and learn from people who are different than me and experience the food, culture, natural environments, and ways of life of diverse places around the world, so this is a very exciting adventure, but it takes a lot of sustained effort and energy. Hopefully I will be up to the challenge. It will be difficult to be so far away from my family and friends, especially my wife, since we have been married for less than a year. Hopefully this blog will help me feel closer while I am in distant lands.