Varanasi

The ghats (riverside temples) that line the entire river in Varanasi are truly full of energy at sunrise. I made up my mind to get up early and take a plunge into the holy river (despite the pollution problems) alongside the thousands of Hindu faithful. Unfortunately, a half decomposed monkey corpse greeted me at the waters edge and I lost all my enthusiasm for bathing (thus forfeiting the washing away of my past life's sins, but it was just too gross). We're having an amazing time in the holy cityjust walking up and down the river and exploring the labyrtine streets (especially dad!). Visual stimulus is everywhere, and peoplewatching opportunities abound, from dreadlock hindu brahmins dressed in saffron robes to dreadlocked European travelers decked out in puffy world clothes. We even saw the making of a new episode of GlobeTreker (a backpacker travle video guide) - the host kept running up the ghat steps trying to get his closing lines out without laughing "This city is so much more than I could have expected. Varanasi has taught me its ok to die, so I've got to go, I have a lot of living to do." Along side the spiritual and cultural wealth of Varanasi is a more annoying side consisiting of endless offers to visit local silk shops (which dad did), charter boats to ride up and down the river (which we did not do), ayruvedic massages, or buy any number of products in local shops, along with the more straightforward begging and deliberate misinformation and assorted scams. We also had a small mishap: Janet stepped directly in a large fresh cow patty wearing her sandals, right in front of the crowded police station corner (to the amusement of all). The nearby water pump was dry, but luckily the brahmins at the local teple could direct her to a running tap to clean her foot. Dad keeps us all entertained with his very particular shopping habits (he fixates on random items which he must have; he's already filled the handicraft bag he purchased with assorted gifts). Overall, Varanasi is a magical place (especially in the morning and evening when temperatures are bearable), but even relaxing in our room, we still had a view of the river thanks to Janet's willingness to walk out on inferior and overpriced accomadations!